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	All 36 posts		Subject: Salvinorin A (journal article)		Please login to post		Down

		ChemisTris (Hive Bee) 05-14-03 19:17 No 433158				Salvinorin A (journal article) (Rated as: excellent)
						Salvinorin A: the `magic mint' hallucinogen finds a molecular target in the kappa opioid receptor Trends in Pharmacological Sciences Volume 24, Issue 3 , March 2003, Pages 107-109 Abstract: Salvinorin A, a neoclerodane diterpene, is the most potent naturally occurring hallucinogen known and rivals the synthetic hallucinogen lysergic acid diethylamide in potency. Recently, the molecular target of salvinorin A was identified as the kappa opioid receptor (KOR). Salvinorin A represents the only known non-nitrogenous KOR selective agonist. Based on the selectivity of salvinorin A for the KOR, this receptor represents a potential molecular target for the development of drugs to treat disorders characterized by alterations in perception, including schizophrenia, Alzheimer's disease and bipolar disorder. DOI:10.1016/S0165-6147(03)00027-0 PDF: http://mishmashblue.tripod.com/salv.pdf Got democracy?http://www.dhushara.com/book/multinet/democ/wed.htm
		yellium (I'm Yust a Typo) 05-14-03 19:24 No 433159				And I bet it cures AIDS too.
						And I bet it cures AIDS too.
		ribbon13 (Stranger) 05-21-03 03:25 No 434471				And Joe Baca is trying to ruin it
						Joe baca (baka in Japanese means idiot, hmmm coincidence?) of california introduced a bill that would make Salvia Divinorum schedule I.... Hopely medical studies will ensue quickly so the worst they can do is schedule II if it ever happens. I pray to the various gods that Joe Baca meets a cruel and horrific and hopefully excruciating end, and before another bill like his past one is born. Maybe he does something like cheat on his wife. Maybe it could be investigated and them made public to discredit him and the idea that Salvia is bad. And maybe all the people operating websites trying to sell it as an 'alternative to pot' will get blown to bits too... Well its nice to dream damn it! Would he realize this same lonely desert was the last known home of the Manson family?
		Nick_J (Stranger) 05-21-03 17:52 No 434588				That sucks.
						I might begin to understand the reason behind scheduling it if anyone had actually done tests on its safety, and found it to be dangerous. But no, as usual "drugs are bad," so they want to ban it . Even if it was found to be dangerous, it should be our choice to decide what we do to our bodies . It's probably the people who're hoping to make a quick buck by selling it as "legal weed" who are responsible for the bill. If it wasn't for them, salvia would be practically unknown to most people, I imagine. Well, if it is going to be made illegal, just buy a plant while you still can. I have (still not had that breakthrough though... maybe soon), even though I don't think the UK will ever make it illegal - I can still buy cubensis grow kits over here, and I haven't heard of any plans to outlaw them. I really do feel sorry for Californians. From what I've heard their state has the stupidest laws . "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."
		ribbon13 (Stranger) 05-22-03 00:46 No 434646				Sorry, that wasn't concise,
						The bill was not passed, as it was from the 01-02 CONGRESS. That would have made it schedule I throughout the country... damn the californians.... http://www.erowid.org/plants/salvia/salvia_law.shtml Would he realize this same lonely desert was the last known home of the Manson family?
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-29-03 07:26 No 436266				Salvia Divinorum Kitchen Chemist Extraction Method
						Edit:This post is obsolete, and has been superceded with the following: Post 436512 (Salvia_Divinorum: "Salvia Divinorum Kitchen Chemist Extraction Method", General Discourse) Post 436577 (Salvia_Divinorum: "Split post, due to length was past the limit...", General Discourse)
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-29-03 07:37 No 436267				Regarding the above Salvia Extraction Post
						The substance Salvinorin may not be addictive, but the subject certainly has become an addiction. I researched it for many weeks trying to find more information on Salvia Divinorum and Salvinorin, especially photographs of Salvinorin or Salvinorin crystals, but none were to be found anywhere on the net. I became fixated on the idea of growing my own crystals but could not find a method to extract somewhat pure Salvinorin anywhere on the net and the people who knew how would not tell me. Because of this I had to work out my own extraction method. I did not have the training to use column chromatography, one method of getting down to clean Salvinorin. Because of this I found another way, the first way I found to do so was using Acetone chilled to 20 degrees F. with whole or lightly crushed leaf for three minutes. This worked well, but was inefficient. One of the major refinements I found was to wait 16 to 24 hours for the extremely fine sediments to fall out of the extraction solvent, after I found this then I was able to obtain high concentrations of crude Salvinorin estimated to be 75 or higher percent purity without further cleaning. However, I found that washes of the extract with 99% Isopropanol allowed me to get down to white Salvinorin, but due to the losses using a solvent which Salvinorin is soluble in, I switched to using Naphtha for the first few washes because Salvinorin isn't soluble in it. Prior to finding how well pure Naphtha is able to remove the wax from a crude extraction, I had believed that chilled Acetone with whole or crushed leaf was the only way to easily extract somewhat clean Salvinorin, but after a few months I started wondering if a room temperature extraction of powdered leaf would be better, if pure Naphtha could be used to remove the bulk of the waxes. I tried it and it worked far better than I had imagined possible. Today I recommend using Acetone with powdered Salvia leaf, extracting the leaf three separate times for five minutes each, one right after the other with additional washes with fresh Acetone. You can extract powdered Salvia leaf using 99% IPA and it will work wonderfully well too, but requires a longer period of time soaking powdered leaf to be able to be as efficient as a much shorter period of time using room temperature Acetone. I found that 70% IPA isn't very effective so if your going to use IPA, only use 99% and extract it the same way, three separate extractions for 15 minutes each, instead of five. Salvia Divinorum was my first and will probably be my last entheogen of interest. I became interested in this plant on a fluke because I have always had strong opinions about "drugs" of any kind, even to the point of refusing to use aspirin for a head ache. Because of my opposition to drugs, I had no interest in entheogens of any kind until I happened upon a story about some of the spiritual experiences of individuals who smoked Salvia Divinorum, which, due to my strong interest in experiencing something spiritual, or something beyond the grasp of reality that I could see with my own eyes, in the end lead me to purchasing some 5X leaf from Daniel's web site. It took a few tries, but I eventually found myself experiencing a full blown out breakthrough which took me to another universe that was full of nothing but spheres. The experience was very brief but so awesome that I was hooked on the subject. It has taken me a great deal of effort to work out a simple extraction process to get down to somewhat pure Salvinorin. No one would tell me how to extract out wax free Salvinorin and as far as I know, this information was not available anywhere on the net before. At least, not in this detail and not using the specific process that I now use. I hope that someone will make good use of my extraction notes. I am not a writer and I realize that what I have written is both redundant and in many areas not as smooth (understatement) to understand as they should be, but it is far more than anyone seemed willing to offer to the public before. Just don't abuse it by trying to smoke the extract, it is far too potent to use that way safely. Here is a link to the rest of my posts on this subject, I collected most of the posts I had made before and put them in one thread at that site. Because of this, many of the posts are redundant information: http://forums.lycaeum.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=000965 I have been posting this same information on several forums under different names over the last year and a half or more. Even though Salvinorin is completely legal I still don't like people to know who I am because it is a psychedelic. If for some reason the above link does not work, try this one: http://www.shamanicweb.com/yapp/index.php?op=forum Although, you cannot get in unless registered there. The server for that site is located in Europe. BTW: I do not smoke Salvia Divinorum or use Salvinorin as a drug, a year ago I did, but as most usually come to find, after awhile enough is enough. Often times too intense. I wouldn't be into Salvia if it was illegal, or dare posting this anywhere if it were, if it ever gets scheduled I guess I will have to rid myself of my Salvia hobby. It would be such a shame if it went that way, since it doesn't appear to have negative side effects and no one has had medical problems from using it.
		LaBTop (Daddy) 05-29-03 17:18 No 436361				Thanks very much for sharing!
						And if you haven't read Post 435658 (pHarmacist: "Salvinorin A", Methods Discourse), then you should go there now. LT/ WISDOMwillWIN
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-29-03 20:00 No 436394				Thank you for the link, I took a look at that...
						Thank you for the link, I took a look at that article. Being a complete chem novice that did not take any kind of chemistry class in high school, I have a lot of trouble understanding that kind of tech talk. I work in a technical field, but it is a completely different field and can't grasp the majority of what is being said.
		Aurelius (Hive Addict) 05-29-03 20:04 No 436397				Tech Talk
						Pm me if you need more basic explanation of what's going on in that reference.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-29-03 20:27 No 436404				Thanks
						Thankyou for your kindness but I don't think you realize what your opening yourself up to, how little I understand most anything written on that page. I am at peace with what I know now because this method works so well. I just wanted to grow Salvinorin crystals so that I could share some pictures. I think that I might have snuck in the back door with this simple extraction process, as far as I can tell the chem experts hadn't done it this way, or were using more involved methodes before. If they had been using this process, it must have been kept quiet because it is too simple and there are people making lots of money off of selling this stuff.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-30-03 07:37 No 436512				Salvia Divinorum Kitchen Chemist Extraction Method (Rated as: excellent)
						Salvia Divinorum Kitchen Chemist Extraction Method. Salvia Divinorum Salvinorin Extraction and Purification, a crude method that works. To extract enough Salvinorin from your Salvia Divinorum leaf to be able to get a fair quantity of crystals I recommend using at least 250 grams of leaf. Finely powder your leaf into a close to a flour like consistency as you can using one of those small high RPM coffee grinders that has a stainless steel bowl and blade built into the top. Then take the finely powdered leaf and extract it three times in a row, one extraction immediately after the other using room temperature Acetone for about five minutes each, and then washing the powder through a couple of more times with fresh Acetone to get any residual Salvinorin out of the leaf that might be trapped in the wet Acetone left behind. Then pour all of the Acetone from the three extractions and washes together into one bowl, making sure not to let any leaf particles pour over with it and let it sit still for 12 or more hours. Do not let your extract stay dissolved in Acetone for longer than 24 hours while exposed to light because there has been some evidence that Salvinorin will begin to degrade or decompose if kept in Acetone beyond that amount of time when in bright light. Prior to learning this, I had recommended a longer period of time to allow the sediments to settle out, but unless you can store your solvent in a dark room while the sediments settle out, I have since reduced it to 12 hours, but even eight hours will allow most of them to settle out. I like to let the solvent sit undesturbed longer than eight hours to get more of the sediments out of the fluid, but the last bit of sediment contamination can also be removed as a last step. After waiting 12 hours the majority of the sediments will be laying in the bottom of your container and you can now carefully pour the Acetone into your evaporation container, being careful not to let the fine sediments pour out with the last of the Acetone. Because of this you may have to leave some of your Acetone behind to prevent the sediments from pouring over, save it and re-extract your sediments with fresh Acetone, letting it settle out for another 12 hours again, but go ahead and process what you have already separated. I have not been able to confirm this, but due to the possibility of loosing some Salvinorin that stays disolved in Acetone too long, especially when exposed to light. One method I use to reduce processing time is to pour all of the Acetone into the largest flat glass container that you can find and then place a fan nearby blowing air across the surface of the fluid. This will cause rapid cooling due to evaporation and often causes ice to form both on the outside and inside of the container, bringing water into your Acetone that will be slow to evaporate, so I just pour the water off, once the fluid no longer has a Acetone smell to it you can safely pour the water off of your extract as long as your careful not to allow any of the extract to pour out with the water, I have found that the water will contain some of the tannin from the leaf and being able to pour it off will help increase the purity of your extract. You can also wait until your Acetone has evaporated down to the last couple of ounces and then transfer into a small glass bowl and evaporate it the rest of the way down in an electric oven set to 120 degrees (cracked open and vented). After all of the Acetone is gone you can then refine the waxy extract into a white powder by using just Naptha and 99% Isopropanol to wash all of the waxes out. I do this by scraping the extract up and placing it all in a small 25 ml glass vial, making sure the the volume of dry extract takes no more than one third the volume of the vial. I then perform multiple washes of the extract using pure Naphtha, waiting at least 30 minutes for the extract to settle so that the majority of the Salvinorin particles fall to the bottom of the vial before you begin removing the dark fluid. Waiting thirty minutes, or even up to an hour or longer before you remove the Naphtha from the first wash would be a good idea because you probably won't be able to see where the layer of crude extract is within in the vial. Once I have waited at least thirty minutes or longer for the particles to settle, I use a small eye dropper to carefully remove about a third to half of the Naptha from the top of the vial and then fill it back up with more fresh Naphtha and continue doing this; washing, waiting, removing the dark solvent and pouring in more Naphtha until the fluid becomes becomes fairly translucent or easy to see through, indicating that it has become ineffective at removing more of the wax. After you are able to see the layer of crude Salvinorin in the bottom of your vial,  you can then wait as little as 10 minutes between each wash because you will be able to see if the particles have all settled, the finest particles can take longer so waiting will increase yield.  It usually takes me a total of seven washes of about 20 ml of Naphtha before it begins to really lighten up. Once your Naphtha has washed so much of the wax out that it isn't taking on much color anymore, completely remove as much of the Naphtha as possible and then dry all of your wetted extract by placing it all in a small spice bowl and let it slowly dry at room temperature, or to speed things up place the bowl in an oven set to 120 degrees. If you want to grow crystals you will need to remove more of the wax from the extract that Naphtha will be able to remove. I use 99 percent Isopropanol to continue washing the extract because it is far more effective at removing the wax than Naphtha, although also removes some of the Salvinorin with each wash. When you add the IPA to your dried extract (after the Naphtha washes) you will likely be surprised how dark the IPA becomes the first time you pour it into your vial of green extract, it will be almost black. You could wash the extract from beginning to end with just IPA, but since Naphtha carries away far less Salvinorin with each wash your better off cleaning it as far as you can with Naphtha first before using Isopropanol. After the Naphtha washes it ususually takes me three to five more washes with 99% Isopropanol until the extract lightens up to either a light green or white color. You need to wait at least 20+ minutes after each IPA wash before pouring or eye droppering off the dark Isopropanol so that the particles fall to the bottom because Salvinorin particles take at least twice as long to settle out of 99% Isopropanol than it does for Naphtha. However, since your extract has already had most of the wax removed by the Naphtha washes, you should be able to see if the particles have settled. Chilling your vial of IPA while waiting will help the Salvinorin precipitate out of the fluid too, so while you waiting for the particles to settle go ahead and put the vial in a cold refridgerator, or even the freezer, it will only help. After your done washing your extract with Isopropanol to the point where your happy with the color, fully evaporated the IPA out of the extract either at room temperature or in a bowl or on a cookie sheet in an oven set to 120 degrees for however long you like, as long as it is crispy dry. The following step of dissolving your cleaned extract in Acetone is not necessary, but is a good check to make sure you do not have sediments in it. You can skip this, but it is a good way to know, the only easy way to know how pure your extract really is; Once your cleaned extract is completely dry scrape it all up and put it all in a 100 ml glass container (with a screw on Teflon top) and add Acetone and shake it up really well and then let it sit for eight hours so that if there are any sediments that you might have failed to remove in the first steps of the extraction, they will fall out into the bottom of the 100 ml container. Since Acetone can hold so much Salvinorin in the dissolved state this is a good way to make sure you didn't get any sediments in your final extract because the Salvinorin will color the dark brown sediment white when the concentration of Salvinorin is high enough. If sediments are found wash them through at least three more times with fresh Acetone to make sure that all of the Salvinorin out of them. Removing the sediments is the hardest part of extractions. In my experience, this last step of dissolving the light extract in pure Acetone almost always produces more sediments in the bottom of the glass. After they have settled out I then carefully pour the Acetone off and leave them in the bottom. I then take the Salvinorin saturated Acetone and put it in a small glass bowl for evaporation in an electric oven set to 120 degrees F. (with the door cracked open) and once the Acetone is evaporated down to the last few ml, crystals will usually for, although small due to rapid evaporation. Be careful not to let the vapors accumulate in a closed oven or they could be ignited, also, leaving the door cracked open might cause the ovens heating elements to become red hot due to the heat loss through the open door which could also ignite the fumes. However, this has never happened to me. I try to keep the solvent as far away from any of the heating elements in my oven as possible. Never leave an oven unattended if trying to evaporate small amounts of solvent and never try to evaporate more than an ounce or two of solvent at a time in any kind of electric oven and have a fire extinguisher on hand, just in case it is needed. If your concentration of Salvinorin is high enough, when evaporating a couple of ounces of Acetone full of Salvinorin in an electric oven set on low heat, after a couple of hours crystal formations are often found in the bottom of your bowl, but they might be extremely small and difficult to see without a magnifying glass. If the evaporation is slower larger crystals can form, using an oven speeds the evaporation process up so if your trying to grow large crystals it would be better to allow your Acetone to slowly evaporate at room temperature. You do not need to remove all of the green from your extract to grow crystals, but you should remove at least 95% of the waxes or they might not form.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-30-03 13:35 No 436577				Split post, due to length was past the limit...
						Regarding the use of Naphtha to remove waxes: Naphtha works wonderfully well at removing the waxes while leaving most of the Salvinorin behind because Salvinorin is almost completely insoluble to Naphtha while the waxes are. This method is the best simple method that I know to remove the wax from either a  Alcohol or Acetone extraction (once dried). All you have to do is completely dissolve your waxy extract into pure Naphtha and wait for the crude Salvinorin to fall to the bottom of the vial, eye dropper off the Naphtha from the Salvinorin on the bottom and pour more Naphtha in. Keep doing this until the Naphtha becomes translucent and you will have removed most of the waxes from your extract, but not all of them because Naphtha won't get all of the waxes out, but continued washes with 99% Isopropanol will, if you want to continue cleaning your extract that far, but it is unneccessary if your just going to use your extract to enhance leaf. For the first Naphtha wash, after sturring your solvent into the extract thoroughly, I like to let it set for at least an hour because the Naphtha will be so dark that it can be difficult to be able to see where the Naptha stops and the particles on the bottom begin. Because of this, I find it very difficult to remove Naphtha from the vial without accidentally removing crude Salvinorin particles too. For the first wash, since I am working for the most part blind to where the Salvinorin layer is I usually just eye dropper off no more than half of the volume of fluid (as long as your extract didn't take up more than a third of the container when dry) and then pour in more Naphtha, even if there was still alot of Naphtha left in the vial from the first wash. Just keep doing this same thing over and over again until you can see where the layer of Salvinorin particles begin. If the Naphtha keeps turning a dark color, keep cleaning your extract until the Naptha stops taking on color, or becomes translucent. You should save the Naphtha used to remove the bulk of the black wax because although Salvinorin isn't supposed to be soluble in Naphtha, some of it it will be carried away with it as fine particles or in the wax itself. This is why it is a good idea to let your Naphtha set for a long time after dissolving your extract into it so that the majority of the Salvinorin will fall out of it. Although waiting just 10 minutes will allow most of the Salvinorin to fall out of the Naphtha, waiting an hour or even hours more  for all of the particles to fall out of the fluid would be even better to get the very last bit of those fine particles. After you have removed the solids from the bottom of the Naphtha wash I always save the Naphtha and evaporate all of it to see if it turns into a gooey slime that seems to never dry all the way, or a hard substance that you can scrape off with a knife or a spoon. If it dries into a crusty substance that you can scrape off  then it probably has lots of Salvinorin still in it and is worth another cleaning the crusty residue with more Naphtha to see if more solids fall out of it. For smaller extractions of 50-100 grams of dried leaf I have been recommending using small 25-30 ml containers using only small amounts of fluid and multiple washes with Naphtha, but if your doing a large extraction you can upsize your container. Also, there is no reason that you should have to do multiple washings of your extract when using just Naphtha, you could do just as well to use a larger container and work with several ounces of Naphtha at a time to dissolve your black wax into. I like to work with small containers when washing an extract because it gives me more control, but when working with larger extractions of 250 grams or more you might want to move up to a small pint sized canning jar for the Naphtha cleaning. If you want to clean the extract beyond what Naphtha can do, 99% Isopropanol will get more of the green out that the Naphtha can't touch, but it costs you Salvinorin each time. 99% Isopropanol only holds about .75 mg of Salvinorin per ml of fluid when working with near pure Salvinorin without any chlorophyll or what is called black wax from the leaf present, but when this substance is present Isopropanol can hold several mg per ml of fluid. This means that each time you wash an extract with 99% Isopropanol that has black wax in it then you will be removing substantial portions of the Salvinron with each wash. When cleaning an extract from 100 grams of leaf (after the Naphtha washes) it could take three washes using 99% Isopropanol to get your extract to lighten up to a light green color and as many six 15+ ml washes with IPA to lighten up the extract to white Salvinorin. All total the IPA washes could cause you to loose 25% or more of your yield when trying to purify the extract from 100g of leaf to white Salvinorin. If your trying to purify the extract from only an ounce or less of leaf, then the amount of Salvinorin lost by Isopropanol washes could be so great that you won't have hardly any Salvinorin left. If your just making enhanced leaf there is no reason to need to refine an extract into a lighter green or white powder because using just Naphtha you can remove the bulk of the black wax without the loss that using Isopropanol causes. When making tincture removing too much of the wax will make it ineffective because some of the wax is required to help absorbtion, without some of the wax present in tincture it not not be very effective. Cleaning an extract with just Naphtha and nothing more ought to leave enough wax for use to make a fine tincture. If you do decide to wash your extract with additional washes of 99% Isopropanol, be sure to completely evaporate the Naphtha out of the extract before using the Isopopanol and do not use anything less than 99% Isopropanol. The amount of time it takes the fine particles to fall out of Isopropanol is about twice as long as Naphtha, so you may need to wait at least 20 minutes for most of the Salvinorin particles to settle when using Isopropanol to remove waxes.Waiting an hour or more between washes would help, refridgerating your vial of Naphtha or Isopropanol to 40 or 50 degrees while waiting for the Salvinorin to fall out seems to help reduce losses when washing with Isopropanol and shouldn't make much difference with Naphtha, but I do it anyway. Link to cleaning photoguide:  http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvinorin2003/lst?&.dir=/IPA+Extractions+at+Room+Temp.&.src=ph&.begin=9999&.view=t&.order=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvinorin2003/lst%3f%26.d Here is a link to some interesting Salvinorin crystal formations:  http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvinorin2003/lst?&.dir=/IPA+Extractions+at+Room+Temp./Salvinorin+Crystals&.src=ph&.begin=9999&.view=t&.order=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvin
		Osmium (Stoni's sexual toy) 05-30-03 13:42 No 436578				Why make everything so complicated and wordy?
						Why make everything so complicated and wordy? Just stick in some filter paper into the naphta. Or use a pipet with a cotton ball inserted into the tip. Beats 10,000 word writeups every day of the week. I'm not fat just horizontally disproportionate. http://www.whatreallyhappened.com
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-30-03 14:00 No 436581				My wordyness due to cluelessness
						I guess I don't need to make it so wordy here, I wrote it for someone who is completely clueless, like I was when I first started trying to extract the leaf. Without all of the extra words in there I understood so little that I would have had trouble following it
		Osmium (Stoni's sexual toy) 05-30-03 14:02 No 436582				Sorry, it's my short attention span, I cannot...
						Sorry, it's my short attention span, I cannot read such long procedures without my thoughts drifting away from the topic. I'm not fat just horizontally disproportionate. http://www.whatreallyhappened.com
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 05-30-03 14:04 No 436583				Short posts
						Here is the simple version of this extraction method: 1. Finely powder Salvia leaf, extract using room temp. Acetone, three times for five minutes each 2. Wash powdered leaf through twice more with fresh Acetone to remove residuals. 3. Combine Acetone from extractions and last washes, filter leaf from fluid, let stand for 12 hours for fine sediments to fall out of fluid (in dark to reduce losses due to interaction of light), remove sediments. Save your sediments to re-extract with fresh Acetone. 4. After the fine sediments are removed from your Acetone, completely evaporate this solvent completely out and then scrape all of the dried waxy extract out of your evaporation container and place in a small 25-50 ml glass vial. 5. Wash the wax out of your extract using multiple washes of pure Naphtha waiting for the crude Salvinorin particles to settle each time, when the Naphtha stops taking on much color or becomes fairly translucent, then dry extract and begin washing with 99 percent IPA until the extract is a light green or white colored Salvinorin. *6. Dry, redissolve Salvinorin in 100 ml Acetone, let sediments settle 8 hours in dark, decant Acetone from sediments  (go ahead and evaporate your first pour off of Acetone), wash sediments twice more, let sediments from second wash settle another eight hours and pour off Acetone for evaporation. 7. Slowly evaporate the Acetone at room temperature to form crystals. *6: This step is to assure that your extract is as high a purity as possible, to remove sediments that were failed to be removed earlier.
		catfish (Hive Bee) 06-12-03 06:35 No 439485				open flames are dangerous
						Sal- whow's it going, man? Just wanted to stop by to see how things were working out here, and I kind of figured I'd find you here...good to see you know about these forums. Anyway, I wanted to say that IMHO, ovens are a bad idea, even with the door cracked and fire extinguisher ready. I favor a more expedient route myself: 1) prepare your acetone extract as usual 2) set up a water bath on the hot plate at slow to medium boil (hard if you have time constraints), and allow for excellent ventilation 3) using a PYREX (NO SS!) beaker or bowl, add the contents to it and monitor 4) reduce to manageble volume 5) 1 L of saturated acetone takes ~1 to 1-1/2 hrs This method, I have found, will considerably shorten the time necessary to reduce the volume of acetone in this type of situation. I have found no degradation of product at these temperatures. A water bath and a hot plate is a must, however, due to the volatility of the solvent. SS vessels evaporate the solvent much more quickly, due to the metal's heat conductivity, BUT, may cause the acetone to flash (FIRE!). So stick to pyrex. -catfish PS-what happened to the 80% aqueous methanol part? all information related for educational purposes only!
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 06-12-03 09:37 No 439493				Your method (Rated as: excellent)
						Catfish, are you just commenting on a way to quickly reduce the amount of Acetone after an extraction? I won't heat Salvinorin while in Acetone unless evaporating out only an ounce or two in a short amount of time. Thomas Monroe recently found that Salvinorin can degrade while in warm Acetone. Only question is, how long in warm Acetone before you loose too much? I have noticed losses each time I dissolve Salvinorin in hot solvents, they might not be great for short amounts of time but it adds up if you keep re-dissolving Salvinorin powder into hot solvent over and over again regrowing crystals. I agree that using an electric oven set on low to evaporate a small amount of Acetone isn't a good idea, that is why I put a caveat not to do this with any more than an ounce or two at the most and monitor it the whole time set to no higher than 120 degrees F. with the door slightly cracked open so that fumes can't accumulate too much. Even then I pointed out that it is dangerous, regardless of only using a small amount. I reworked my shortened version of the tek as follows: The following was written for 100 to 250 gram extraction: 1. Finely powder or crush Salvia leaf, extract using room temp. Acetone three separate times for five minutes each. 2. Wash wet leaf through twice more with fresh Acetone to remove residuals.   3. Combine Acetone from all three extractions and last washes, remove all leaf particles, filter sediments from solvent or let fluid stand undisturbed for up to 12 hours for sediments to settle out. While waiting for sediments to settle store your extract solvent in a dark cool place to reduce possible losses due to interaction of light and heat. Save your sediments to re-extract with fresh solvent.   4. After the fine sediments are removed from your Acetone, completely evaporate this solvent completely out and then scrape all of the dried waxy extract remains out of your evaporation container and place in a small 25-50 ml glass vial. Do not fill the vial more than one one third full of dried extract. 5. Fill your vial of extract full of pure Naphtha, stir or shake for one minute and wait at least 30 minutes for the Salvinorin particles to fall to the bottom of the vial. Remove no more than half of the fluid from your vial using a eye dropper, being careful not to dip too deep into your dark Naphtha when doing so because you will not be able to see where the layer of crude Salvinorin is until enough wax has been removed. Continue washing the wax out of your extract via multiple washes of Naphtha waiting for the Salvinorin particles to settle each time, when the Naphtha stops taking on color and becomes fairly translucent remove all Naphtha and dry. 6. To remove more waxes begin washing the extract with multiple washings using 99 percent IPA until the extract is a light colored Salvinorin. As the Salvinorin becomes cleaner and cleaner the particles will take longer to settle, taking as long as a hour to do so for each wash. *7. Dry, redissolve Salvinorin in 100 ml Acetone, let sediments settle 8 hours in dark, decant Acetone from sediments (go ahead and evaporate your first pour off of Acetone), wash sediments twice more, let sediments from second wash settle another eight hours and pour off Acetone for evaporation. 8. Slowly evaporate the Acetone at room temperature to form crystals. *NOTE: Step 7 is to assure that your extract is as high a purity as possible, to remove sediments that might not have been removed well enough earlier. Naphtha removes the waxes without dissolving the Salvinorin. Isopropanol is far more effective at removing waxes but also removes Salvinorin, use it sparingly. Save all of your Naphtha and Isopropanol used for the washes. After the Naphtha has set a few hours 10% or more of the Salvinorin will be found in the bottom of the container. Save all of the IPA used to wash your extract because it can be used to enhance leaf or for making tincture, depending on how much Salvinorin was removed through the washes. Here is a standardization procedure so that you can add Salvinorin back to leaf. This came from a well known Salvia Divinorum researcher: The method is simple: Dissolve a measured quantity of Salvinorin A in a solvent, and then absorb it onto a measured quantity of crumbled salvia leaves. Evaporate off the solvent, and Wha-la! Here is a more detailed explanation: To make salvinorin A enhanced leaf that contains 15 mg salvinorin A per gram of leaf, dissolve 12.5 mg* pure salvinorin A in 1 ml of warm acetone, and then add 1 gram of crumbled salvia leaves and stir. The leaves will absorb the salvinorin A-containing acetone. Place the container in a well-ventilated location and wait for the acetone to evaporate off. Stir the leaves occasionally during the evaporation period. Make sure that the acetone has evaporated completely--there should be absolutely no smell of acetone left on the leaves. * The amount of salvinorin A to use will vary depending on the salvinorin A content of the leaves that it is being absorbed onto. If the leaves are of average potency, containing 2.5 mg salvinorin A per gram, then you would deposit 12.5 mg salvinorin A onto them to bring the concentration to 15 mg per gram (as in the above example). Of course, one can standardize the leaves to other concentrations as well. The more precisely you know the salvinorin A content of the leaves, the more accurately you can standardize them. I use very pure salvinorin A for this procedure. If you are using material that is impure, you will need to take into consideration the percentage of impurities when calculating the amount of material to use. Obviously, the same technique can be used to deposit salvinorin A onto other types of leaf. I strongly advise against smoking leaf that contains more than 15 mg salvinorin A per gram unless the individual doses can be accurately weighed. At this concentration, the amount of smoke produced provides a certain amount of safety because it makes it difficult for a person to accidentally inhale too large a dose in a single inhalation. If you have a precision balance that can accurately weigh small doses, then stronger concentrations are preferable since the amount of smoke can be minimized without compromising safety. Link to 99% Isopropanol extraction and cleaning photoguide: (99% Isopropanol will work too but you need to extract the leaf more times and longer for the same efficiency as Acetone at half the amount of time.)  http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvinorin2003/lst?&.dir=/IPA+Extractions+at+Room+Temp.&.src=ph&.begin=9999&.view=t&.order=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvinorin2003/lst%3f%26.d Here is a link to some interesting Salvinorin crystal formations:  http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvinorin2003/lst?&.dir=/IPA+Extractions+at+Room+Temp./Salvinorin+Crystals&.src=ph&.begin=9999&.view=t&.order=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/salvin
		catfish (Hive Bee) 06-12-03 22:19 No 439611				Sal- you know that ...
						Sal- you know that you lose a little each time you recrystallize, right? I'm sure the losses you experienced come with the territory. I have had no potency issues since I started heating the solvent to speed evaporation. I would appreciate a link or lead to the reference you cite, however. Better safe than sorry. Still, I believe it was light, not heat, that caused the degradation of Hofmann's alcoholic extraction. Perhaps a combination of both. I maintain that 90 minutes of temperatures that will not even disrupt salvinorin A's crystal lattice will harm the molecule. If one can successfully vaporize salvinorin A without decomposition, then I submit that sub melting point temperatures will not harm, if applied for a limited time. -catfish all information related for educational purposes only!
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 06-14-03 23:01 No 440046				Yes, you may be exactly right.
						Yes, I agree that your probably right. From everything I hear Salvinorin is one tuff molecule and a small amount of heat over a period of hours while in Acetone probably won't hurt much, however without hard testing to know for sure if it can degrade or not I prefer not to heat Salvinorin containing Acetone if I don't have to. Using a large flat glass dish and a fan will evaporate out 1000 ml of Acetone in a short amount of time so I don't need to heat it. The report of UV light from some indoor floro lighting destroying the large portion of 1 mg of Salvinorin disolved into a small amount of Acetone in just a couple of hours is the only report that I know to be accurate because the chemist who tested it using a HPLC told me himself that this report is correct. The report about Salvinorin being degraded in warm Acetone is just something I read on a web bbs, supposively reported by Thomas Monroe who did some tests but I have not been able to find this man or the actual report to know what temperature and how long the Salvinorin was in the Acetone for this to occur. For all I know the report is complete bunk.
		Lilienthal (Moderator) 06-15-03 07:41 No 440105				Maybe you should read the articles posted...
						Maybe you should read the articles posted above .
		catfish (Hive Bee) 06-18-03 06:00 No 440689				correction
						Hi all- I need to make a correction: "I maintain that 90 minutes of temperatures that will not even disrupt salvinorin A's crystal lattice will harm the molecule" is what I said . I meant to say that said temperatures will NOT harm the molecule. -catfish all information related for educational purposes only!
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 06-18-03 08:35 No 440756				Understood
						Catfish, I understood what you meant bro. I have a new photograph to share of Salvinorin crystals that I really like. The brown material under the crystals are sediments which were not filtered out well enough prior to evaporating the Salvinorin saturated Acetone.
		catfish (Hive Bee) 06-19-03 10:50 No 440998				excellent photo
						Sal- I wonder if you could simply wash out the sediment with dH2O, or, conversely, redissolve the crystals and pipette out the solvent as an alternative to long sediment-settling procedures...I am starting to believe that the sediment has something to do with the profusion of trichomes found on the leaves. I have found a choking dust appears when the leaves are ground, and believe this to be a result of the trichomes also. Perhaps a silkscreen filter, similar to one used to capture cannabis trichomes could be instituted, only discarding the filtrate instead of keeping it. -catfish all information related for educational purposes only!
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 06-20-03 10:59 No 441282				Lost
						Catfish, I am completely lost to chem. talk and have no idea what your talking about when you say dH20. I am just a regular guy who has taken an interest in Salvia Divinorum without having had any prior background in entheogens, chemistry or organic studies of any kind before I made a hobby out of extracting Salvia Divinorum. The only reason I have concentrated my efforts on it at all is because I was refused when I wanted to buy some near pure Salvinorin  because I wasn't a scientist studying Salvinorin. If I wasn't refused I would have never gone as far as I have developing my own method. I can be told no, but I am usually pig headed enough to get what I want anyway. I didn't want it to smoke or use Salvinorin as a drug, all I wanted was to see what Salvinorin crystals looked like and there wasn't a single photograph of them anywhere on the net. The sediments aren't a huge problem to deal with. I just let them settle out over a long period of time because I do not have proper lab equipment to filter them out. Although a simple tube full of cotton balls is probably all that is needed to do the job quickly. Many of the photographs of Salvinorin crystals on the Yahoo site show sediments in them because the crystals like to grow on rough surfaces better than smooth glass, because of this a disportionate amount of the photographs show some sediments in the bottom simply because the crystal formations were more interesting when grown on sediments instead of glass. Most of the time I am able to get all of the sediments out without trouble. The sediments were in that last batch of crystals because I allowed some of the sediments to pour off with the Acetone when separating the Acetone from the sediments, I didn't use my own rule of leaving some of the Acetone behind so that sediments don't accidentally pour over. More came over than I thought, but the crystals sure formed nicely on them. As far as cannabis or filters used for any other purpose, believe me, I am completely out of the loop of any knowledge in that area. I'm not into any kind of illicit substance and have never been involved in anything like that, nor will I. If this stuff is going to be scheduled I will send it to Canada before I take a risk of getting busted. I have been too public on this and it would be no problem for the government to find me.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Stranger) 06-23-03 10:08 No 441904				Surprise (Rated as: good read)
						I sure had a surprise today, I extracted Salvia leaf using about 2/3 Acetone and 1/3 99% Isopropanol together in the mix. As the Acetone evaporated out of the large pot that I had high volume air blowing into crystals grew on the inside of the container walls as the Acetone evaporated down. I haven't seen them do this before, very cool. Also, the sides were coated with light green Salvinorin, another surprise. After pouring the Acetone/IPA out for further evaporation in a smaller container I was able to wash the sides of the large pot with 99 percent IPA and recovered some very clean Salvinorin without using Naphtha to wash the waxes out. I have never mixed IPA together with Acetone for an extraction before. The reason I mixed them together today is because I ran out of Acetone and added Isopropanol to raise the fluid level so to completely cover the finely crushed leaf, room temperature. Maybe that ratio of Acetone and IPA caused the crystals to form as it evaporated down. I have never seen either crystals or light green Salvinorin coat the sides of my evaporation container as the solvents evaporated out when using either Acetone or IPA alone, often some Salvinorin but never crystals when soaking the leaf an hour at room temperature and never such a broad thick layer of wax free Salvinorin coating almost all of the inside surfaces where the fluid evaporated as the volume became less. I used a tall pot instead of a flat broad dish for the evaporation this time, another difference. After pouring out the solvent mix the containers insides were coated fairly heavily with Salvinorin and took some elbow greese to dissolve all of it off the sides of the pot using 99 percent IPA to remove it with. The crystals themselves were the size of sand grains but surprised me none the less. Normally all I have coating the sides of the evaporation containers is dark wax.  When extracting with Acetone or 99% Isopropanol alone and then using a long deep evaporation container the waxes will coat the sides of the container as the fluid evaporates down leaving much purer extract in the bottom, but when using a two thirds Acetone and one third 99% IPA mix for an extraction and then evaporating the fluid in a deep container this resulted in mostly wax free Salvinorin on the sides as the solvent evaporated down instead of wax. Although not completely reversed, the waxy extract in the bottom still has most of the Salvinorin in it. If your going to use one of these techniques to reduce waxes in your extract, I'd go with the pure Acetone extraction and long tube for evaporation, leave that wax behind and the sides and collect the cleaner extract in the bottom where most of it will be in either case. Of course, you want to later remove all of that wax from the sides and recover the Salvinorin from it too. This isn't very prounced in wide evaporation containers even if they are tall. The smaller the diameter of a tall evaporation container the more pronounced the results, slow to evaporate though. Note: I do not sell Salvinorin or Salvia Divinorum. I have had people ask me this question in emails (from another forum) and even ask me if you can mix Salvia Divinorum with illicit substances. I might post in a forum like this, but that is as close to any illicit substance that I have ever been which only amounts to reading about others.
		Rhodium (Chief Bee) 06-29-03 00:11 No 443186				mixed solvent evaporation
						What likely is happening here is that you start out with a solution which is acetone/IPA in a 2:1 ratio, but when you evaporate it, the acetone is evaporating faster, gradually shifting the solvent ratio to a 1:1 ratio and beyond, creating favorable conditions for crystallization.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Newbee) 02-07-04 09:01 No 487055				Growing Salvinorin Crystals from Salvia Divinorum (Rated as: excellent)
						Growing crystals isn't always easy. There are two ways that I have done it. 1. Dissolve Salvinorin powder into 151 proof Everclear Alcohol (191 proof might work better, but I have never had any of it to try with): Sometimes you have to re-heat a vial of Salvinorin and Ethanol several times to at or just below boiling before they might grow when cooling. If they are going to appear they should be there within an hour or two, certainly over night. Each time I re-heat a vial containing Salvinorin in 151 proof Everclear Alcohol (75% Alcohol) to boiling so that crystals might form the next time as it cools (to room temperature) I loose some of the Salvinorin and crystals don't always grow. On average I have to re-heat a vial three or four times before decent crystals form in the liquid. 2. Evaporating Salvinorin saturated Acetone at normal room temperature without any air blowing on the solvent so that it evaporates very slowly will also produce crystals, but not always. I have grown crystals by evaporating Acetone fairly quickly in either an oven at 120 degrees f (just an ounce of solvent) or by having a fan blow air across an ounce of Salvinorin saturated Acetone, but the crystals usually do not form as large as they do when the evaporation occurs slowly. Also, if you have not removed enough of the chlorophyll waxes the crystals will be hard to see, so try to remove as much of it as you reasonably can if your going to try to grow crystals. With either method the crystals are more often than not so small that you cannot see that they are crystals without the aid of magnification. Sometimes I get lucky and they form very beautiful large crystals, other times I just get a crusty deposit. I can't seem to control it, what ever happens is what happens. I just grew these crystals today by dissolving 1 gram of refined Salvinorin powder (light green color) into 90 ml of 151 proof Everclear drinking Alcohol (Ethanol). I had to re-heat this glass four times just to boiling in a microwave oven (top off) and then allowed the fluid to cool at room temperature for at least two hours each time to see if crystals appeared. The first three times only a cloud appeared which was extremely small crystals, not visible to the eye except as a cloud. On the fourth try these fine large crystals formed after two hours. When heating your Alcohol thoroughly shake or mix the Salvinorin powder into the Alcohol to dissolve as much as possible. When heated 90 ml of 151 proof Ethanol ought to dissolve at least 95% of the powder or more but have a few specks of solid Salvinorin in the bottom, this indicates that you have fully saturated the fluid at a hot temperature because you can't dissolve any more Salvinorin into it. When the Ethanol cools back down to 20 degrees C. sometimes Salvinorin crystals will precipitate out of the fuild because the Alcohol cannot hold nearly as much Salvinorin when cooled down to room temperature. Just leave it alone and let it cool down to room temperature setting on a shelf, nothing special needed. I have used 99% Isopropanol to grow crystals this way too, but they are always much smaller than when using Ethanol. Acetone won't form crystals at all, Methanol will sometimes form larger crystals than Ethanol, but hasn't been as reliable for me compared to 151 proof Everclear Alcohol which usually takes three or four cycles of re-heating the vial before nice crystals form. You can pour the Alcohol off (saving the fluid of course, its full of Salvinorin even if you can't see it) and dry the crystals on a Teflon cookie sheet in an oven set to 120-150 degrees F., but when you scrape them up from the sheet they always break into smaller pieces, never nice individual crystals as I would like. Handling them with Naphtha has been suggested to me because they won't dissolve in it and might remain separate, but it has never worked out that way, Naphtha causes them to bunch together even worse and stick to the glass more than 99% IPA. Maybe I will try water next time! Since the wax is gone they ought to be easier to separate out that way.                      What good are Salvinorin crystals? Well, you know that you have a fairly high purity if crystals will form. Other than that, not much use for me other than to look at. I just enjoy seeing them, that's enough reason for me. As far as I know you can't buy Salvinorin crystals like these without going to Daniel S. and spending hundreds of dollars for a half gram of them (at several dollars a milligram) and he will only sell them to qualified scientists. These probably aren't as pure as his, but not far from it either. Once the liquid is poured off (which appears red due to halogen lighting, actually green) the crystals themselves are a very light color. To refine your extract enough to grow crystals see this link:  Link to: 99% IPA Extraction and Refinement Photo Guide (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/salvinorin2003/album?.dir=/IPA+Extractions+at+Room+Temp.&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/salvinorin2003/my_photos) LATE EDIT:  Cut and paste from another forum in response to questions about Salvinorin crystals: From:  theobromos What you have done is not simply growing some crystals, you have performed a Fractional Crystallisation (fanfare). You will lose a little of the product each time you do this but you lose loads of the impurities that stay in the mother liquor. I won't try to estimate the purity but you will have pharmaceutical purity in one or two repeats of this process, if you don't have already. Have you tried putting the acetone solutions in the freezer? Do you wash the crystals before you dry them? It used to be said that chemists with beards were better at crystallisations. From Salvinorin I haven't worked very hard at saving the crystals as whole specimins, I have just been drying them in an electric oven set to 120 degrees F. on a Teflon covered cookie sheet and then scrape them up with a flat edge which always breaks them into thousands of smaller pieces, unless they are very small to begin with. I'm considering just pouring off the Alcohol next time I work with them and then pouring in some water to keep them from sticking together, maybe I can collect them without breaking them up that way. Pouring out the water and xtals together onto the cookie sheet for drying, since salvinorin isn't suppose to be soluble to water. Yes, I seem to loose some Salvinorin each time I do this, reheat the vial three or four times in a microwave oven, which probably isn't a good way to go for even heating. Starting with a full gram maybe having 850 mg when I am done, half of that weight in crystals and the other half I recover from the Alcohol I pour off and evaporate separately. When ever I dissolve Salvinorin into Acetone and let it evaporate it ALWAYS results in crystaline formations, sometimes flat and difficult to see as crystaline, but if you pick off the top  layer there are always crystal formations within. Although, sometimes you need a stereo scope or microscope to see them, they are always crystaline if the purity of the extract is high enough to begin with, meaning if you remove most of the chlorophyll waxes first. I have tried heating 100 ml of Acetone several times with 1 gram of Salvinorin powder in it, but nothing ever shows, not even a hint of cloudyness or crystals, but I never tried freezing it to see if something would come out. I assumed that Acetone is just too difficult to saturate because it can hold something close to 20+ mg of Salvinorin per ml, from what I have been told. I have only tried washing the crystals once when I tried using Naphtha to remove some chlorophyll wax that had deposited on a portion of the dried crystal structures which luckily formed from just the evaporation of some Acetone with Salvinorin dissolved into it (as seen in these photographs: Salvinorin Photos (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/salvinorin2003/lst?&.dir=/IPA+Extractions+at+Room+Temp.-Salvinorin+Crystals&.src=ph&.begin=9999&.view=t&.order=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/salvinorin2003/lst%3f%26.dir=/IPA%2bExtractions%2bat%2bRoom%2bTemp.-Salvinorin%2bCrystals%26.src=ph%26.view=t)) Trying to remove wax that had caked onto the crystals with Naphtha didn't work for me at all. Since Naphtha won't dissolve the crystals and will dissolve the chlorophylls I was sure it would work, but it didn't. Perhaps if I had let them soak a few hours it might have done the job, but I poured in some 99% IPA and that took the green off in a hurry, but also dissolved some of the crystals too. Fortunately, I don't have much contamination from wax when crystals form from evaporating Acetone, the wax, if there is any typically ends up drying on the upper edges of the bowl as the fluid level is evaporating down leaving almost wax free crystal formations in the bottom of the bowl. You can see this at that Salvinorin Photo's link, if you look at the evaporation bowls there are green rings of chlorophyll waxes up high on the glass and almost pure crystal structures in the bottom every time.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Newbee) 04-15-04 06:07 No 500911				New Finding, increases yields too. (Rated as: good read)
						Today I evaporated some Naphtha cleaned Salvinorin in Naphtha and found some WONDERFUL little crystals! I have done this twice now and found them both times.  This won't work unless you remove all of the tannin sediments from your extraction solvent first! When evaporating 99% IPA containing crude Salvinorin the wax always forms on top of a dense layer of Salvinorin on the bottom, but when the extract is only cleaned with Naphtha and nothing more with a few ml of Naphtha remaining in the evaporation bowl placed in an oven at 125 F. for further evaporation something wonderful happens, you still have the upper layer of Chlorophyll waxes forming on top of the Salvinorin, but it remains a fluffy crystaline material and the layer of Chlorophyll waxes that form on top is easier to separate from the Salvinorin, easy to peal off when the layer of wax is chilled to the point that it becomes hard. From this finding I assume that the crystals were always there in the dark Chlorophyll waxes the whole time, but I never  evaporated the Naphtha cleaned extract in a few ml of fresh Naphtha before to know this until a few days ago. Usually I continued to clean the extract with a few ml of 99% IPA after the Naphtha washes (unless making tincture), which apparently dissolved the crystals into the Alcohol each time I continued cleaning with IPA and because of this were not visually evident before. Either that, or they somehow grow in Naphtha as it is being evaporated out, but I doubt that because Salvinorin is insoluble to Naphtha and it is obvious that the crystals are all broken, having fractured when scraping the chlorophyll waxes out of the evaporation container from the initial extraction prior to cleaning with Naphtha. To produce this effect I stirred a glass with just three hundred mg of cleaned crude extract in a quarter inch of pure Naphtha (that had already been cleaned using this same solvent) and then placed the glass in an oven set to 125 degrees F. for evaporation. After the Naphtha is completely evaporated, wha-la! Wonderful yellow crystals under a thin layer of Chlorophyll waxes (aka black wax). I have found nothing easier, nothing simplier than this to get to relatively pure Salvinorin, by the looks of the crystals better than 98% pure once the top layer of wax has been peeled off. This is a wonderful breakthrough for me to find, greatly simplifying the purification of Salvinorin far beyond what I had ever hoped to come upon. With this improvement ANYONE should be able to easily make standardized enhanced leaf with very little extra effort, if they should care to do so. Note: I doubt that this has anything to do with it, but the extract that I cleaned with Naphtha and produced these nice crystals came from powdered leaf that had previously been extracted using boiling water for 5 minutes as an experiment to determine if boiling hot water would remove most of the Salvinorin or not. The powdered leaf was then dried, re-powdered in a high rpm coffee grinder and then re-extracted with 99% IPA. The Boiling water removed a portion of the Salvinorin, but obviously from these results left the majority of it behind for further extraction with Alcohol. You do NOT need to pre-extract your leaf with water to produce this same result, just use 99% IPA and process as above. WARNING: If you are going to heat Naphtha in an oven there is some potential for fire or worse.... I only evaporate a few ml of fluid at a time, 20-30 ml.  Also, I crack the oven door an inch so that vapors have less of a chance to build up... DO NOT DO THIS IN A GAS OVEN! Fire! Do this at your OWN RISK in an electric oven which can still result in fire..... DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SMOKE EITHER CRUDE OR REFINED SALVINORIN. IT IS FAR TOO POTENT TO USE AS A DRUG.                                                                   This last photo magnified 45X
		sushitake (Hive Bee) 04-26-04 06:51 No 503064				kappa agonists and diterpene chemistry
						kappa agonists have actually shown promise in treating HIV and cancer. diterpene compounds have a similiar profile judging from googled journal articles that compare diterpene structural differences and percieved efficacy in inhibiting HIV and cancer replication......this research is just being started at the University of Iowa, with the stuctural modification of salvinorin a as the target project.....PEACE and healing via the opioid and dopamine "opioidopamine" connection....opiophile.org.... opiophile
		Salvia_Divinorum (Newbee) 05-03-04 01:21 No 504478				Salvia Divinorum Chilled Acetone Extractions (Rated as: good read)
						This extraction TEK is close to three years old, so it's nothing new. I don't know how long the place hosting this picture will be there, so if your interested in this please save the photo for yourself. Your welcome to post this photo with it's accompanying text anywhere you like on other forums as long as you put a warning against the attempted use of either refined or crude Salvinorin as a drug. Only individuals who are trained to work with flammable liquids should attempt this. Acetone and Naphtha are very flammable liquids, especially Acetone which is as flammable as gasoline! Static sparks or other sources of ignition can cause disaster! If you do not know how to safely work with flammable solvents DONT. WARNING: The following is offered for informational purposes only. Don't smoke Salvia Divinorum extract or Salvinorin, don't stick it in your mouth, don't stick it in your nose, or any other place with or without Alcohol or by burning it! You might hit your head or something!  The extract Salvinorin from this leaf is a very potent hallucinogenic substance of which no one knows everything about it's possible effects to the body and brain. While I have no information to make me believe the Salvinorin in enhanced leaf is in itself harmful I don't really know. It appears safe to me, but is it? I know one thing though, it reduces motor control for a few minutes to hours for some individuals and because of this should be treated with great caution. 5X enhanced leaf is only 1.5% Salvinorin by weight. Crude to refined Salvinorin is far too potent to consider for use as a drug. ----------------------------------------------- The following photo document shows how high purity Salvinorin can be extracted from Salvia Divinorum leaf with a yield of over 500 mg from 250g of crushed leaf using about a gallon of chilled Acetone. I originally worked this extraction process up about three years ago, so it isn't new, but I have added refinements since then which make it a very efficient process. Items needed: 250 grams of Whole or crushed Salvia Divinorum leaf. One gallon of Acetone chilled to near zero degrees F. Four ounces clean Naphtha. Four ounces of water. One to four ounces clean 99% Isopropanol (Depending on purity of Salvinorin desired). Two each deep 12 inch diameter glass or ceramic bowls (large enough to hold more than a gallon of fluid). One each deep 6 inch diameter glass or ceramic bowl. Large stainless steel or wooden spoon (no plastics). One each one fluid ounce clear glass container approx 2 inches tall by one inch diameter. One each small stir stick, stainless steel or wood. Extract hand crushed Salvia Divinorum leaf three times over in a 12 inch pre-chilled glass or ceramic bowl for 3 minutes each time with Acetone which has been chilled close to zero degrees F. Prior to extracting the leaf it is best to chill the crushed leaf in its extraction container together in a freezer because when working at room temperature with chilled Acetone, even when pre-chilling your bowl of leaf, the Acetone will warm up to about +15 degrees F. by the time the extraction is done. Having the Acetone warm up to as much as +30 degrees F. will not cause much additional chlorophylls to be extracted, as long as this occurs no sooner than the third extraction and reaches a temperature no higher than that while the leaf is in solvent. The leaf does not need to be crushed, it can be whole leaf, however this will require twice as much Acetone if the leaf is not crushed. The reason I do three extractions to the same leaf is to progressively remove Salvinorin from the wetted leaf. You can powder your leaf if you don't mind the extra amount of impurities that you will end up bringing over requiring additional washes of your extract with Naphtha, water and Isopropanol. Powdering your leaf will not increase extraction efficiency enough to notice when doing Acetone extractions, but will have the advantage of requiring only a couple quarts of solvent for 250g of leaf, half as much as I normally use for this amount of crushed leaf. While extracting the leaf be sure to stir it the entire time and at about the two and a half minute mark begin pouring the fluid off taking care to leave the leaf behind (you can go a minute or two longer with each extraction, not too critcle as long as the solvent remains cold). When pouring the Acetone off of your leaf it would be best to use some kind of screen to assure that small particles of leaf do not pour over with the solvent. After you have completed three quick 3 minute extractions to the leaf combine the Acetone from each extraction into one container, checking that you do not have any leaf particles in your solvent. Next find a dark relatively cool place for the Acetone to sit still for at least 12 hours so that the majority of the tannin sediments will have enough time to settle out of the fluid. Keep the Acetone from your extraction out of bright light which can destroy Salvinorin in a few hours while in solvents, especially while waiting for the tannin sediments to fall out of the fluid which can take a long time. After giving enough time for the tannin sediments to settle the Acetone is then slowly and carefully poured off of the brown sand like tannin which has collected in the bottom of the bowl (as seen in the photo) leaving the majority of this impurity behind you can now begin evaporating the solvent. From a 250 gram extraction you can have a gallon or more of Acetone to evaporate. I always do this outside in a dark but open shed (so vapors can not accumulate into an explosive atmosphere) using a fan to blow air across the top of the bowl until the fluid level was reduced enough to transfer it into a smaller 6 inch diameter glass bowl, as seen below (fan motors produce sparks inside! Do not let Acetone vapors get to it!). Once all of the Acetone is evaporated you will probably find that you will have an amount of water remaining in the bowl.  Except for particles of crude extract the water will have in it, the water can be carefully poured off leaving the extract behind. This water will contain mostly tannin contaminates and pouring it off will help increase purity. When transferring and scraping out the extract be sure to get every bit of it, the material coating the sides of your bowl will be fairly high purity Salvinorin that you don't want to leave behind. When the Acetone has been completely evaporated off of your extract and all moisture has been completely removed scrape up all of the extract including all dried films from the sides of the glass evaporation bowl and pour into a small one or two fluid ounce container and add pure Naphtha. The Naphtha will remove a portion of the Chlorophyll and other impurities from the leaf, but not Salvinorin as it is insoluble to Naphtha. Stir or if in a closed container shake the extract in the Naphtha for a couple of minutes and set the glass aside for at least 30 minutes to allow the extract particles to all settle to the bottom of the container. Once they have completely settled you can now carefully either eye dropper or pour off the Naphtha into another container, saving it aside to check a few hours later to make sure additional particles have not settled out of the fluid in case you accidentally let some pour off. Add more Naphtha and continue washing the extract, waiting for the particles to settle, pouring off and adding more Naphtha until the solvent will take on very little color. Once you have removed most of the Chlorophylls that you can with Naphtha let the extract completely dry making sure that none remains. Making sure that you have completely evaporated the Naphtha from your extract you can then begin the water washing step which will remove some of the tannins that remain. Pour all of your dry Naphtha cleaned extract into a small glass one or two fluid ounce clear glass container and add water and thoroughly stir or shake the extract into the water for a couple of minutes or more (warm water helps, but room temperature will work too). As before wait for the particles settle to the bottom of the glass and then carefully pour the fluid leaving the extract behind. Don’t let any of the small particles pour off with the water as they will contain a portion of the Salvinorin. Continue water washing the extract until the water will no longer take on a brown color and remains clear with the last wash, this will make sure that most if not all of the tannin impurities have been removed. Completely dry the extract once more. When the extract has been completely dried with no hint of moisture begin washing your extract with 99% Isopropanol in a clear one fluid ounce glass container (don't use 70%, only 99%) by stirring or shaking for a minute or two and then wait for the Salvinorin particles to settle out to the bottom of the glass. It usually takes longer and longer for the particles to settle the more pure the extract becomes. It is best to use a tall narrow glass for this so that you have lots of fluid on top of the crude Salvinorin that is easy to either eye dropper or pour off of the Salvinorin in the bottom of your container. Unlike the Naphtha and water washes of the extract which Salvinorin will not dissolve into, each cleaning of your extract with IPA will remove a portion of the Salvinorin. My recommendation is to do only one wash with 99% IPA and call it good. Your extract should be greater than 90% pure after one wash. How much IPA? If you have extracted from 250 grams of leaf 30 ml of 99% IPA ought to be enough for one wash to remove most of the green Chlorophyll whille reducing the loss of Salvinorin. You should save the green IPA used to clean your extract as it will contain up to 75 mg of your Salvinorin from just one wash. You can continue washing the extract from a 250 gram extraction of crushed Salvia Divinorum leaf using 30 ml of 99% IPA each time until your extract is completely white, however doing so could cause you to loose 75 or more milligrams of Salvinorin with each additional wash with Alcohol,  depending on how well the particles have settled to the bottom of the container before removing the fluid, or how careful you are to make sure very little of your precious extract pours out with the IPA. Note: The following is a photo documentation of a plus five degree F. chilled Acetone extraction with finely crushed leaf which had warmed up to plus fifteen degrees F. at the completion of the third extraction. The amount of cleaned Salvinorin shown in the photographs is NOT representative of the extraction efficiency because I removed lots of Salvinorin when using 99% IPA to remove Chlorophyll waxes. However, keeping the IPA from the final two washes separate it was easy to recover most of it by evaporating all of the IPA out and then cleaning with a smaller amount of Alcohol netting another 200 mg of clean Salvinorin. Each wash should not remove this much Salvinorin, I removed more Salvinorin than I should have with each wash due to my impatience to wait for all of the fine particles to settle between washes which can take up to an hour or more to completely settle as the extract becomes purer and purer. I also recoverd over 50 mg of Salvinorin from the first two IPA washes which is harder to get out due to the amount of dark Chlorophylls. The total amount of 575 mg of cleaned Salvinorin I was able to get out of 250g of crushed leaf does not include the Salvinorin that I will get out of the fourth long term extraction done afterwards to the same leaf.
		7is (Newbee) 05-03-04 13:10 No 504569				salvinorin (Rated as: excellent)
						Salvinorin A, an active component of the hallucinogenic sage salvia divinorum is a highly efficacious kappa-opioid receptor agonist: structural and functional considerations Chavkin C, Sud S, Jin W, Stewart J, Zjawiony JK, Siebert DJ, Toth BA, Hufeisen SJ, Roth BL. J Pharmacol Exp Ther. 2004 Mar;308(3):1197-203 Abstract The diterpene salvinorin A from Salvia divinorum has recently been reported to be a high-affinity and selective kappa-opioid receptor agonist (Roth et al., 2002). Salvinorin A and selected derivatives were found to be potent and efficacious agonists in several measures of agonist activity using cloned human kappa-opioid receptors expressed in human embryonic kidney-293 cells. Thus, salvinorin A, salvinorinyl-2-propionate, and salvinorinyl-2-heptanoate were found to be either full (salvinorin A) or partial (2-propionate, 2-heptanoate) agonists for inhibition of forskolin-stimulated cAMP production. Additional studies of agonist potency and efficacy of salvinorin A, performed by cotransfecting either the chimeric G proteins Gaq-i5 or the universal G protein Ga16 and quantification of agonist-evoked intracellular calcium mobilization, affirmed that salvinorin A was a potent and effective kappa-opioid agonist. Results from structure-function studies suggested that the nature of the substituent at the 2-position of salvinorin A was critical for kappa-opioid receptor binding and activation. Because issues of receptor reserve complicate estimates of agonist efficacy and potency, we also examined the agonist actions of salvinorin A by measuring potassium conductance through G protein-gated K(+) channels coexpressed in Xenopus oocytes, a system in which receptor reserve is minimal. Salvinorin A was found to be a full agonist, being significantly more efficacious than (trans)-3,4-dichloro-N-methyl-N-[2-(1-pyrrolidinyl)-cyclohexyl] benzeneacetamide methane-sulfonate hydrate (U50488) or (trans)-3,4-dichloro-N-methyl-N-[2-(1-pyrrolidinyl)-cyclohexyl] benzeneacetamide methane-sulfonate hydrate (U69593) (two standard kappa-opioid agonists) and similar in efficacy to dynorphin A (the naturally occurring peptide ligand for kappa-opioid receptors). Salvinorin A thus represents the first known naturally occurring non-nitrogenous full agonist at kappa-opioid receptors.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Newbee) 05-04-04 01:19 No 504658				Salvinorin Crystals hidden in black wax. (Rated as: good read)
						High purity Salvinorin crystals can be found in the dried black wax from a 99% Isopropanol extraction using nothing but Naphtha to remove Chlorophyll. ***(could someone please delete the earlier post on this same topic, I cannot edit it now to fix the text or add the picture link that did not work in the first post on this) Today I evaporated some 99% IPA from a Salvia Divinorum extraction and then cleaned most of the chlorophyll waxes out of the extract using nothing but Naphtha and found some WONDERFUL little crystals! I have done this twice now and found them both times. This won't work unless you remove all of the tannin sediments from your extraction solvent first! When evaporating 99% IPA containing crude Salvinorin the wax always forms on top of a dense layer of Salvinorin on the bottom, but when the extract is only cleaned with Naphtha and nothing more with a few ml of Naphtha remaining in the evaporation bowl placed in an oven at 125 F. for further evaporation something wonderful happens, you still have the upper layer of Chlorophyll waxes forming on top of the Salvinorin, but it remains a fluffy crystaline material and the layer of Chlorophyll waxes that form on top is easier to separate from the Salvinorin, easy to peal off when the layer of wax is chilled to the point that it becomes hard. To produce this effect I stirred a glass with just three hundred mg of cleaned crude extract in a quarter inch of pure Naphtha (that had already been cleaned using this same solvent) and then placed the glass in an oven set to 125 degrees F. for evaporation. After the Naphtha is completely evaporated, wha-la! Wonderful yellow crystals under a thin layer of Chlorophyll waxes (aka black wax). I have found nothing easier, nothing simplier than this to get to relatively pure Salvinorin, by the looks of the crystals better than 98% pure once the top layer of wax has been peeled off. This is a wonderful breakthrough for me to find, greatly simplifying the purification of Salvinorin far beyond what I had ever hoped to come upon. With this improvement ANYONE should be able to easily make standardized enhanced leaf with very little extra effort, if they should care to do so. Note: I doubt that this has anything to do with it, but the extract that I cleaned with Naphtha and produced these nice crystals came from powdered leaf that had previously been extracted using boiling water for 5 minutes as an experiment to determine if boiling hot water would remove most of the Salvinorin or not. The powdered leaf was then dried, re-powdered in a high rpm coffee grinder and then re-extracted with 99% IPA. The Boiling water removed a portion of the Salvinorin, but obviously from these results left the majority of it behind for further extraction with Alcohol. You do NOT need to pre-extract your leaf with water to produce this same result, just use 99% IPA and process as above. WARNING: If you are going to heat Naphtha in an oven there is some potential for fire or worse.... I only evaporate a few ml of fluid at a time, 20-30 ml.  Also, I crack the oven door an inch so that vapors have less of a chance to build up... DO NOT DO THIS IN A GAS OVEN! Fire! Do this at your OWN RISK in an electric oven which can still result in fire..... DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SMOKE EITHER CRUDE OR REFINED SALVINORIN. IT IS FAR TOO POTENT TO USE AS A DRUG.                                                                      In this first picture you can see where I scraped a small amount of the top layer away to show the crystals that formed below it.              This is a close up pic of the above photo.         This last photo are the same crystals spread out on a piece of paper, magnified 45X.
		Salvia_Divinorum (Newbee) 05-18-04 01:26 No 507818				Last extraction post for me on this subject...
						This is likely the last extraction post I will be making on this subject because I believe that I have exhausted the subject with this last refinement to the chilled Acetone whole leaf (or crushed) extraction method. This last finding makes needing to wait for sediments to fall out of your Acetone a thing of the past. To get to it: I did another extraction with reagent grade Acetone to 250 g of leaf for just one minute at plus 40 degrees F. and instead of waiting for the sediments to fall out I just evaporated the Acetone completely out and then rather than removing the extract from the bowl just poured in three cups of water and mixed it into the extract really well. The water took on a yellow color from tannins which I then set aside for 10 minutes so that the fine Salvinorin particles would all fall to the bottom of the bowl before pouring the water off, taking care not to let the light green colored Salvinorin particles of extract to pour off with it. Once you have poured the water off you might want to add more water and do one more wash. As long as the water continues to take on color you will be removing tannin. (You can skip the next step using Naphtha all together and go strait to cleaning with 99 percent Isopropanol, the Naphtha did not really remove a whole lot of the green since there was so little of it in there to begin with) Then completely dry the water wetted extract and then pour 4 ounces of Naphtha right into the same bowl again and try to remove a portion of the chlorophylls by dissolving the extract as best you can into the Naphtha, wait an hour for the fine particles to settle to the bottom bowl and carefully pour off the Naphtha leaving the fine particles behind. Next completely evaporate all hint of Naphta out of the extract and once dry scrape it all up with a spoon and put in a small vial and add about 20 ml of 99% IPA to remove what little chlorophyll waxes came over, stir it up really well and set aside for an hour. You will then find white colored Salvinorin in the bottom of the glass which should be over 90% pure, probably closer to 95%. If you did a good enough job of water washing the extract it should have no tannin to speak of and the only impurity slight amounts of chlorophyll. Another wash with another 20 ml of 99% IPA will make it much higher purity, but the IPA washes take Salvinorin away so my best advice is to do no more than one wash and consider it 90% pure and leave it at that. Just use 10% more weight when adding to leaf if your making enhanced leaf. I found that the estimated efficiency for one single one minute +40 degree F. extraction to crushed Salvia leaf was close to 75%, perhaps better. Not bad at all, and takes very little time! You might try washing your leaf through another time with fresh 40 degree F. Acetone just to be sure to get the last of the salvinorin, but keep the solvent from that second extraction separate as it might have too many waxes in it for the water to be able to cut through it well enough to get to the water soluble tannin. This worked great because at +40 degrees F. the Acetone was warm enough to be both efficient enough for a short one minute extraction while at the same time reducing the amount of chlorophyll extracted. At plus 40 degrees F. just one minute gets most of the Salvinorin out of the leaf and has reduced the chlorophyll waxes enough so that water can be used to dissolve the tannin right out of the extract so that you don't have to wait hours and hours for it to settle anymore. I don't recommend using Acetone unless it is either technical or reagent grade. If your doing extractions for commercial made leaf, I would go the long route and use just grain Alcohol and more of the same to remove waxes from the dried extract. It's more lossy, but your working with food grade all the way. From my experience you can only do room temperature or warmer extractions when using Enthanol, chilled Alcohol has always been very inefficent for me.
		7is (Hive Bee) 08-25-04 06:15 No 527219				Deuterium salvinorin A (Rated as: good read)
						A facile method for the preparation of deuterium labeled salvinorin A: synthesis of [2,2,2-2H3]-salvinorin A Kevin Tidgewell, Wayne W. Harding, Mark Schmidt, Kenneth G. Holden, Daryl J. Murry and Thomas E. Prisinzano Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters  Article in Press, Corrected Proof Abstract Salvinorin A is a novel hallucinogen isolated from the widely available leaves of Salvia divinorum. Based on its mechanism of action, salvinorin A has shown potential as a stimulant abuse therapeutic. However, there are no methods for the detection of salvinorin A or its metabolites in biological fluids. In order to begin developing salvinorin A as a potential therapeutic, an understanding of its metabolism is needed. Here, a straightforward synthesis of a deuterium labeled analog of salvinorin A and its utility as an internal standard for the detection of salvinorin A and its metabolites in biological fluids by LC–MS is described. Keywords: Salvinorin A; Deuterium; Salvia divinorum; Hallucinogen

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