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All 9 posts   Subject: Advice on 2 Meth Synths   Please login to post   Down

 
    cradle
(Stranger)
11-17-03 18:31
No 471406
      Advice on 2 Meth Synths     

hey guys,

SWIM is prepared to attempt these two methods, any advice before continuing the road?

METHOD # 1:
The ratios are based on your using red phosphorus from matchbooks and iodine from tincture. DO NOT ADJUST RATIO. The reason is never once while nano pondering had a failure or half reacted product, and never yielded under 60%. So follow instructions and don't make any adjustments. From start to finish takes swim 2 hours. Give yourself 2.5 hours. You will end up with at least 0.7gm of get your dick hard meth.

Don't get me wrong, swim has seen his share of failures during his adventures of cooking, but for some fucked up reason those were only seen in much larger scale cooks. Swim has taught friends this nano scale procedure because some people have a really hard time understanding the mathematics of producing meth. Learning this way will teach you the basics hands on. Ask any of the big boys: methead, warlock, placebo, rhodium; fuck, there's a lot of them now. Producing HIGH QUALITY meth fail safe and consistently is a skill that takes 100% visual/observational skills and actually knowing what is happening WHILE it is happening and knowing that fine line of needed adjustments if things don't go as planned. That makes this synth a good tool to exercise your observational skills and get you clued in on what is going on. And most importantly, a fat bowl when finished.

Extraction
NB! This extraction procedure is out of date for most pseudoephedrine pills, and is likely to fail. Please refer to other documents at this site for updated instructions on how to extract pseudoephedrine. After you've done that, resume reading from the "Reaction" section below. /Rhodium

Materials

8oz denatured alcohol
24ct pseudoephedrine pills 60mg
12oz glass jar / lid.
2 coffee filters /funnel
Corning/Pyrex plate
heat source (no open flame)
Crush your pills and put in 12oz glass jar. Add the denatured alcohol and fit with lid. Shake jar hard a few minutes. Place jar into freezer for 10 minutes. Shake again and return to freezer for an additional 20 minutes. Your pseudoephedrine will be dissolved in the alcohol while the waxes and fillers will settle to the bottom. Carefully pour the top layer into a funnel with coffee filter and onto a glass dish. Evaporate the alcohol (gentle heat and/or hair dryer.) You should have around 1.5gm pseudoephedrine.

Reaction
Materials

test tubes (glass cigar tube works good)
3in. balloon ( standard kids size water balloon)
black electrical tape
2 soup cans (one filled with damp sand)
candle (buy the kind that sit in glass bowl)
pseudoephedrine / iodine / red phosphorus
small amount of peroxide (common household)
distilled water
Using 2 soup cans, one on top of the other, makes a perfect source of heat to the moist sand. Construction is very simple: the lower can has holes drilled throughout it for air supply for flame. Now with candle lit in 1st can place 2nd can with sand right on top. The sand will warm instantly and your ready to go.

You will be using

1-1.5gm E
3gm I
2gm RP
Place your test tube in freezer 5 minutes before adding chemicals. In the following order add: I, E, RP. Have your tape and balloon ready to go. With a dropper add 4 drops of peroxide and place balloon over test tube approx. 1cm. Tape balloon in place. Using your finger to prevent anything from entering the balloon, shake the 3 reactants to mix well. The reaction will start, now place tube into sand 2.5-3 inches and set timer for one hour. Exercise your observational skills; take notes on what you see. After a handful of runs at this soon you won't need to set a timer because you will have schooled yourself and have your own tools (sign's) that completion of the rxn is there. But for now go with 1 hour, no more no less. Blow your candle out and let tube cool in sand for 15 min. Take your now room temp. test tube and cut balloon off. Add 20ml dh2o. With thumb over the hole, shake up and filter out the red (its good to have a few test tubes clean and handy) by pouring liquid into another test tube using small funnel and 1 coffee filter (saturate filter with dh2o prior to using.) Now your left with a clear, yellowish liquid.

Crystallization
Materials

Red Devil lye
charcoal lighter fluid
muriatic acid
dh2o
Add 8gm of lye to a clean test tube. Now add 20mL of dh2o and mix well (use gloves if you shake tube using your finger as a stopper!) then place in sand to cool.

Add 50mL lighter fluid to the tube with your yellow liquid. When cool add the lye solution SLOWLY to the tube with the yellow liquid and lighter fluid. Don't pour it in all at once, add splashes until gone. Cover the hole and give it one good shake, release the pressure and place in sand for approx. 15 minutes. Your lye will be locked on the bottom which is fine. Pour off lighter fluid into a clean test tube. Add 20mL dh2o, 4 drops of acid and shake hard. Use an eye dropper to get the bottom layer, attaching aquarium vacuum tubing to extend the length if needed. Pour this onto your glass dish and evaporate. What remains after dh2o evaporates is pure meth. Scrape crystals with razor and enjoy! That's all folks!
------------------

METHOD #2:
placebo
(Hive Researcher)
07-04-00 11:04
         Go to Whoah!   
Ok, this is a compilation of many peoples' methods.
I believe this to be the best, simplest, fastest, and cleanest method for producing meth-amphetamine, in the highest yields possible for RP/I2/E reaction.
Remember, each and every step gives small losses, and this method has the least steps!
It is a culmination of efforts by Worlock, CHEMMAN, and maybe a few tiny touches by me.
I re-iterate, I don't want any congratulations except for the write-up itself.

You will need these things, and no substitutions allowed.
If you can't get this shit, you ain't ready to make the best Go-Go in town.
This is a refinement of all methods, and the next step up from Push Pull, but nobody should be discouraged from attempting this, as you will probably find it easier.
pH paper isn't even necessary.

This post is one method from Go to Whoah.
This post has to be followed from Go to Whoah.
Otherwise you can run into trouble, as povidone is not removed in this extraction.
It will be removed at the end. Each step was chosen to complement the next.
Understand?
Read on.....

Index:
1: Equipment
2: Reagents
3: Extraction of pfed
4: Reaction
5: Steam distillation
6: Crystallisation

Equipment:
Various jars
2L pyrex vessel
2L 2 neck round flat bottom flask
1 condenser, I recommend a coil condenser but a Liebig will suffice.
1 sloping splashhead or better, a steam distillation sloping splashhead.
A steam pressure cooker, that has a release-valve on top.
Hotplate, electric of course.
Filter paper, Buchner and vacuum would be nice too.
Thermometer.
1 Glass stopper.
Lengths of clear pvc tubing.
Pot with vegetable oil, which can fit your reaction vessel.

Reagents:
Iodine crystals.
Red Phosphorous.
Pseudo-ephedrine, or ephedrine.
Methanol.
Toluene.
Acetone.
NaOH.
All must be clean and anhydrous.
Ice.

Extraction of pfed:
This method will deal with the HCl salt of pfed, and a streamlined version of "the Cure".
All pills are dumped into a large jar and double of this pills-volume in the form of methanol poured on top.
This is stirred vigourously and let stand to settle thereafter, in the fridge seems to speed it up.
After the top methanol layer has cleared it is carefully decanted off.
This procedure is repeated 3 times.
All methanol pulls are put together and the methanol boiled off on a hotplate.
As methanol gets down to the last little bit, it is taken off the heat.
Then a portion of acetone, twice your remaining liquid is dropped in.
This forces the pfed crystals to crash out.
Then the remaining liquid is carefully evaped off.

Washes:
Now you have your crude/dirty pfed HCl.
Next we will be doing successive toluene washes.
Put your pfed crystals in a pyrex (heat proof glass).
Now add toluene to a safe level that can be lightly boiled on the hotplate.
After about 5 mins boiling with stirring, take off the heat and let it settle a minute.
Now carefully pour off toluene into a filter to catch any remnants of pfed that may follow.
Now if you get the toluene that has our contaminants in it and add some water, you will see the crap, crash from the toluene into the water.This is the crap that came thru with the methanol pull.

So as we continue to do multiple toluene washes, we will continue to test the toluene after pouring it off, to see how we are progressing with the cleanup.
When we have reached a point where no crap comes out of the toluene, with the addition of water, then we are ready to try acetone.
Usually about 3 boils in toluene, but of course it depends how much you'r using.
So, as before we will add a portion of acetone and boil lightly.
Now when we pour off the acetone, we will add a tiny amount of water and some NaOH.
This is our final test, when you do this and no crap falls out of acetone you are ready.

This will be the cleanest pfed you have ever seen, guarenteed!
AND, yields should be >90% if you'r carefull! 95% is good.

Reaction :
Smallest reaction to be attempted, especially by newbees, is 1 oz of pfed, so that even taking into account sloppiness, lack of experience and losses along the way, you should get some product.
Ratios of reagents are: 3:3:1 or 1:1:1/3 , ie.E:I:RP aka, equal amounts of Iodine and pfed, and a one third amount of RP.
This is calculated on a weight basis, and can be scaled up or down as necessary, e.g.60gmE/60gmI2/20gmRP or 120gmE/120gmI2/40gmRP etc etc.

First prepare yourself an icebath. Yes, icecubes and water in a sink or bucket.
Now, many will say you should add this first or that first.
Well, after much reading of different peoples methods, I say....
Chuck the whole shebang in together, while your flask is on ice, lift and swirl ingredients together, while maintaing on ice.
Put your condenser on top and start water running thru, from bottom to top.
Now, the idea is to get the reaction going in the most controlled way possible, you want to let the reagents react in the container vessel fixed in the icebath, if at all.
Then move vessel from icebath to room temp.
If things look like they're going too fast, put back in ice bath, you want to keep the reaction going but only at a nice slow, controlled pace.
This is also necessary to control vapour in the condenser!
Thick and or dis-colored smoke is bad, and plumes of smoke will escape from condenser.
Let things progress at a nice slow pace, as things slow too much, you can start applying heat.
So prepare an oilbath and bring to about 50 C, if there is no more action in your vessel.
You can move it to the oilbath, and the same goes for it as before, when things slow down.
Adjust heat up, to say 100 C then 150 C for one hour, to make sure reaction has completed.
The whole time you should be watching to keep a nice reflux going, and not too much vapour is escaping from condenser.

Now remove from heat and disconnect condenser, add ice water to quench reaction.
The reason for ice water is to calm the reaction down when NaOH is added.
Its up to you if you want to filter out RP or leave it in untill the end.
I would leave it, it will be washed nicely by next process and be easier to filter.
Now add lots of NaOH to bring reaction mix to + 14 pH.
You cannot over-basify, as meth won't be destroyed, its a tough MF!

Steam Distillation :
Now you need to set up your glassware for steam distillation.
Attach the steam distillation sloping splashhead to top hole of flask, attach plastic hose to steam inlet and the other end on the release valve of the pressure cooker that is full of water.
Attach condenser on the end of splashhead, and rig the whole up so it stays up.
Place a jar at the end of condenser to catch our distillate.
You want to heat both the pressure cooker, and the reaction flask.
Sit back and get ready for one of the most beautiful sights and smells.
The meth freebase that is sitting on the top of your aquaeous layer in the flask will vapourise and be carried across and be condensed in the condenser and trickle down into your jar. It will sit atop of a bottom layer of water.
After the last of the oil has come across, change jars and leave the setup to run for another hour, just to make sure you got it all.
Any povidone from the pills will be stick behind in the reaction vessel.
It has been noted that some polymer that may have been left from extraction, may follow the steam.

Crystallisation :
Now we have a jar of water, with this sweet clear oil sitting on top.
Next options are to add HCl acid slowly with stirring until the oil layer disappears, and then evap the whole lot to get crystals.
Or, as I found, you may have some polymer that has come over with the steam, and is now sitting in the water layer, and it looks cloudy.
I don't want to evap all that, it will just concentrate the shit in there, (plus its very time consuming evapping water, plus you risk losing some meth as the water evaps).
I think you should just throw a little toluene into the jar, and then seperate.
Now your absolutly pure meth freebase is in your toluene!
Now you can either gas, for instant the now clean meth, or add minimal distillated H2O and then acidify to pH 7, shake, seperate and evap water for crystals.
Repeat this step if you do it this way, as some more may come in a second go.

With this process from start to finish, you shouldn't need to re-crystalize, as your product should be the cleanest shit anybody has ever seen anyway.
But you may want to, for the purpose of growing nice big crystals.
In which case, add just enough hot methanol to dissolve all your meth and then place in freezer.
The secret is, the slower the evap, the bigger the crystals.
So a nice slow room temp evap over several days might be fun.

Enjoy, and do not attempt anything above, before you completely understand what you are doing!
You must have a sound understanding of the basics first!
 
----------------------------------------------------------

SWIM is doing both methods to see which one has the best final product.

So please do not flame, just lend a hand to someone who was once in your shoes.
 
 
 
 
    Un_Chambered
(Hive Bee)
11-17-03 20:53
No 471423
      Curbshot's nano was swim's first,2nd and 3rd...     

Curbshot's nano was swim's first,2nd and 3rd dream all produced decent results.
can't comment on the 2nd swim has no ex. with it.
Swim now dream's of wetter longer reflux's for his nano's and enjoys higher yeilds and imo superior product.
good luck whatever route you take.
peace,chambered.
 
 
 
 
    Euphorius
(Stranger)
11-17-03 22:32
No 471440
      advise for cradle     

These synths are great to "get your feet wet" so to speak.  However, the Pfed extraction techniques are way out of date.  You should UTFSE on newer techniques to extract Pfed from pills.  There is also a thread called "Curbshots nano scale synth-questions and qualms" started by "g666" that would be good to read through if you choose to go the Curbshot route.  I don't know how to post the link to it.  You can find it in TFSE or, if another bee is feeling saucey, they might be able to post it for Euphorius smile.  And like Chambered, i don't have experience with the latter synth.  Laters.

***Euphorius - Goddess of Well Being***

....defying gravity....
 
 
 
 
    jackhole
(Newbee)
11-17-03 22:40
No 471441
      Here's the link     

Post 446802 (g666: "Curbshot's nano-scale synth - Questions & Qualms", Stimulants)

Jizzy Jizzy Bang Bang
 
 
 
 
    geezmeister
(Of Counsel)
11-18-03 02:24
No 471495
      two cents worth     

Euphobius' advice is good.

Both of these synths work done properly and with clean pseudo. Current OTC pseudo is harder to get than it was when those methods were posted. Use a more up to date extraction technique. You will not regret it.

Of the two methods, you are more likely to fail with Curb's nano, and more likely to succeed with Placebo, but follow it exactly after the extraction of your pseudo.

IF you want advice on the best way for a newbee to succeed on his first try and how to make the best dope you will ever make, do the long wet reflux. Period, end of paragraph. More likelihood of success, higher yield, better dope. No learning curve.

Its here, you merely have to search a little bit. You might start here: Post 379008 (geezmeister: "Long Reflux Surprise", Stimulants) Then read the "Meth Potency" thread. You are hereby challenged to find it yourself. UTFSE. Its there, its informative, believe it or not.

mostly harmless
 
 
 
 
    cradle
(Stranger)
01-21-04 17:25
No 483839
      thanks!     

thanking you all for your replies.
 
 
 
 
    Gringo
(Newbee)
01-24-04 14:46
No 484372
      please read this....     

If someone uses instead of the pfed-way a steam destillation to catch the ephedrine from plant material and wants to proceed with the I2+RP+E reduction.
Does it make sence to have an internal-source Steam Destillation to carry the product of the reduction (meth)in a clean flask?
(in refer to METHOD # 2)

Es werden mehr Menschen durch Übung tüchtig als durch ihre Ursprüngliche Anlage. -Demokrit
 
 
 
 
    biotechdude
(Hive Bee)
01-24-04 16:55
No 484388
      external works best     

as Swix has said before,

an external (eg steam dream, pressure cooker etc) steam source willl force more ephedrine/pseudo over during a steam distillation (compared to a meth distillation where steam generated in situ [on its own] is enough...)

Keep in mind that the distillate will be very different to a meth-distillation in that the distallate will have goodies in it yet wont have a fat insoluble oil layer; it will be dispersed (undectable) through out the distillate.  The measure of sucess will come when you pH your distillate and evap your product; hopefully to result in a nice reducable alkaloid-hcl mix!

<<typing drunk is difficult>>
 
 
 
 
    morpheus
(Hive Addict)
01-25-04 09:56
No 484499
      curbshots nano     

When doing curbshots nano use toluene,xylene or hot naptha
as the np.Charcoal lighter fl. never worked for swim.
 
 

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